When ordering a custom sheath, it really helps if you let me
know as many details about what you want as possible. If you just
want a sheath that is similar to something I already made and it
only needs a few minor details changed, then most of the questions
below can be ignored, just email me the link to the picture of the
sheath you want, and let me know what needs to be modified (belt
size, color, etc). But if the sheath you want is something different,
then the questions below are important. And you can also take a
peek at the Options section of this website,
it has useful information.
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| 1. Specify which knife you have |
| Sometimes there are variations of the usual pattern even on production
knives. For example, the CRK Sebenza can be plain or with wood inlays,
and a Spyderco Delica can be stainless, Zytel or carbon fiber. While
the difference is usually very small, it can make a difference. |
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| 2. Choose the sheath orientation |
Sheaths can be vertical, horizontal, canted, cross-draw or other
(see Sheath Types link here). They
can also be left or right handed. With some knives it also makes
more sense to have the knife sitting with the blade spine up or
down. And finally, which side of the handle should be facing away
from the body (clip side or the front side). Also see
Orientation page for more info.
Also, for wider knives such as Spyderco Karambit the sheaths can
be made deeper to cover more of the knife or shallower for easy
access, whichever you prefer. |
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| 3. Knife's clip attached or removed |
| Most pocket knives come with the pocket clip, so the decision has
to be made if the clip will remain attached or be removed. I mosly
make sheaths for the knife with the pocket clip still attached, so
you won't have to keep putting the clip on and take it off all the
time. But sheaths for the clipless knives usually have a larger area
free for tooling. |
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| 4. Color of the sheath |
| There is a large number of different colors available, such as black,
shades of brown, tan, and others (see Color
Chart here). I can't always guarantee a precise color match between
the colour of the sheath, because different pieces of leather take
the dye differently, so some differences in shade are possible. For
example, you can specify a shade, since tan can be on the orange side
or yellowish, and light or darker. Anyways, before I ship out the
sheaths I always forward the pictures of that particular sheath, so
if you don't like the shade of color I can always re-make it. |
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| 5. The size of the belt |
| Normally vertical sheaths have a belt loop 2 1/2" wide, canted
and cross-draw have 2" and horizontals are 1 1/2". And if
you specify the width and thickness you want, I can shape the loop
to fit that belt size precisely. |
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| 6. Type of the belt loop |
| Each sheath type has its own main loop style, but there are other
options available (see Belt Loop Types
link here). Whenever possible, I try to make the loop so that the
smooth side of the leather goes against the knife, and that there
are no stitches against the knife either, which reduces the wear on
the knife's finish. |
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| 7. Tooling |
| For tooling, I have a large selection of stamps available, as well
as some alphabet sets for the initials. Look at the samples of my
work for different things that can be done, such as texturing, modelling
or multi-colour sheaths. See Decorative Stamps
for pictures, and Gallery for how the stamped
sheaths look. |
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| 8. Leather |
I have several leather thicknesses to choose from, specifically
5-6 oz (5/64-3/32", 2 - 2.4mm), 6-7 oz (3/32-7/64", 2.4
- 2.8mm)or 7-8 oz (7/64-1/8", 2.8-3mm), but I can order others
too. Also, the front and the back of the sheath can have different
leather thicknesses if needed.
For inlays and overlays I have exotic looking (should not be import/export
problems) lamb skins: natural
python, black python,
black crocodile, black-brown
croc, red croc, red-black
croc.
I also have rattlesnake
skin and rayskins for inlays. The stingray skins are: matte
black, black, matte
white, wine red, ivory
white, brown and emerald
green.
Here are the stingray skins side by side for color comparison (left
to right):
And finally, some toad skins
too (black cherry, camel, chocolate and black). |
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| 9. Threads |
| Usually I use waxed linen thread for most sheaths, but if you prefer
I can also use nylon, polyesther and artificial sinew that can be
used instead. |
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| 10. Finish |
If you have a picture of the sheath that looks like what you
want, that will work great.
If you have a preference in finishes, let me know, I used most
of them. The sheath can be matte, semi-gloss, soft sheen, glossy
or laquered (high gloss). Finishes differ in moisture-resistance,
soft sheen being the least resistant and glossy being the most resistant.
If you plan to use the sheath outdoors I can also apply a special
outdoor conditioner.
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